John's Alaska Railroad HO Scale Layout

August 5, 2020

Over the weekend all four grand kids paid us a visit. After spending a half hour playing in the kitchen set located next to the layout they insisted on me running the train. Shouts of excitement filled the air as I fired up the locomotive, rang the bell and blew the whistle. In a few years each grandson will be able to commandeer a throttle of their own and run "their train" on the layout.	I've noticed metal wheel freight cars run smoother then their plastic counterparts so I decided to perform an upgrade. Due to the fact I have over 200 cars I plan on replacing them in a phased approach. For an initial trial I purchased ten wheel sets of Intermountain wheels as well as a Micro-Mark Truck Tuner.	To use the Micro-Mark Truck Tuner you simply insert the tool in place of a wheel set and rotate the shank. The Truck Tuner's extra-sharp tool-steel cutter reshapes the bearing to the NMRA's recommended 60 degree contour and cleans out burrs and grime. Next, I put in the new metal wheel sets. The difference was indeed noticeable and I will continue the upgrade over the next few months

After a wonderful dinner of pot roast, mashed potatoes, homemade bread, peas, watermelon and cantaloupe we put the finishing touches on the AML S curve. With the cork bed and track in place Rick ran a test with an F7 locomotive and two Princess passenger cars. Smooth as glass and no derailments!	Now our attention turns to the dreaded "S" curve. This major modification will take at least three weeks. We begin by using string to simulate the new fascia. This determines where the fascia cutting lines will be made. Next, Rick uses a hand saw to cut out the old fascia. Next week he will bring his miter saw to make finished edge cuts.	The old foam board and fascia is removed. In the coming weeks new framing, plywood table top and table leg will need to be installed. A trip to the garage revels we have all needed materials on hand. Next week the plywood will be carried upstairs and traced for cutting.

August 12, 2020

My wife and daughter Anne teamed up to make this seat cover for one of the train room stools. My wife cut and placed the material while Anne created and placed the graphics. Why caboose 1087? I rode in it with Randy Thompson on August 23, 2005 as part of the company work train putting out concrete ties. It is the first and only caboose I have ridden.	During the week I painted the newly placed plywood and track at Alaska Marine Lines. One S curve eliminated and one to go.	The first step in modifying the dreaded S curve is replacing the layout surface. Using a roll of white paper Rick created a template of the area (shown at top left). Using the template, straight edge and square he transferred it onto the last remaining plywood piece from the old layout.

Rick uses a jigsaw to make the numerous cuts for the dreaded "S" curve's new layout surface.	Rick's fit is pretty darn close, but he decides to take it home for some custom sanding.	Using putty knife and soldering iron Rick removes the second section of the dreaded "S" curve.

August 19, 2020

Rick uses a miter saw to cut the wood for the new frame support for the former dreaded "S" curve section. He then takes the wood to the layout and marks the angled cut where the frame will connect.	Cuts are made and the new frame piece fits almost perfectly. Rick does a bit of sanding to create an extremely close fit.	This photo shows the angled cut of the new piece and how perfectly it conforms to the existing frame work.

The end of the new framework fits perfectly at both ends. This will make it easy to lay in the new fascia.	Rick puts the plywood top in place. His precise cuts pay off and the plywood top lines up seamlessly to the old plywood road bed.	Five risers and cleats are cut and put into place to support the plywood top and old "hanging" plywood road bed. Next week we will lay cork bed and track!

August 26, 2020

Once again it is time to get out the half gallon can of brown paint and this time cover up the bare wood which replaces the dreaded "S" curve. People visiting the layout receive my standard apology. The "brownness" is a good alternative to exposed wood and pink foam board until the areas receive scenery.	Over the week Rick built a perpendicular support for the area between the old and new framework. This support would also hold an additional leg. I believe this is the "Cadillac" of perpendicular supports!	Rick spends a fair amount of time on his back installing the perpendicular support. Next, he adds the new leg with adjustable foot.

Happy National Dog Day! Max spends more time in the train room tonight due to a vet visit two days prior. This 11 year old "senior" had developed arthritis and the prescribed pain medications and supplements are obviously giving him some relief.	There is a gap between the new and old plywood. This must be filled in to support the cork board and flex-track. Using a hand saw to cut the initial shape and a Dremel refine it, Rick creates and places a plywood filler. He then places two different types of supports underneath each end of the plywood filler.	Using a homemade compass Rick draws the curves for the mainline and Usibelli siding. The specification calls for a minimum of 30 inches and the final drawn arcs are 38 and 35 inches respectively. Rick positions the switch and straight track at the north end to ensure everything lines up correctly. Next week cork road bed, track and Tortoise will be installed!

Mikel Levine's summer work and family schedules were incredibly busy, but he still found time to do a little bit of work on TwentyMile Bridge.	Mikel says of the project, "Now that the spans are built, I can add the rivet detail to the outside spans. This entails punching out the rivets with an awl. Where some of the bracing was removed holes are drilled. You can imagine that this a tedious and time-consuming procedure, but I think the result is worth it in the end. This span needs to be cleaned up and four more need to be detailed. I will not detail the inner and back drop side spans as they will not be seen."

Feel free to contact me at john@alaskarails.org
Page created 9/4/17 and last updated 9/1/20